History & Wine

Originally published in Vino and Voyage, my Substack newsletter featuring Miami dining news & events, wine & travel stories, and real talk on working in wine & media. I wanted to share a taste of that publication here on my original blog. Subscribe if you wish to read more articles like this.

Nine places I visited, and recommend, for very different reasons (and vibes).

There’s no shortage of great meals in Rome. For those of you who have experienced the Eternal City, maybe more than once, you know that the problem is often choosing which places to stop and dine between sightseeing and trying to avoid the crowds. On our recent trip, my goal was less about seeing ancient ruins (although there was plenty of that) and more about finding places to eat and drink in different neighborhoods around the core of the city.

From classic trattorias to charming bars, these are the restaurants and wine spots that stood out. Each one offers its own take on la dolce vita. While some are perfect for a lingering dinner, others are for a quick glass and people-watching session. All of them are worth the stop.

If you’re planning a trip to Rome and wondering where to eat and drink, consider this your friendly, firsthand cheat sheet.

Trattoria Giggetto al Portico d’Ottavia

📍 Via del Portico d’Ottavia, 21/a – Jewish Quarter

If you want a classic Roman trattoria experience, start here. Giggetto is a local institution famous for Jewish-Roman dishes like fried artichokes (carciofi alla giudia) and cacio e pepe. Outdoor tables line the narrow street beside ancient ruins for pure old-school charm. It’s a little touristy, but in that nostalgic, cinematic way that feels exactly right in Rome. In fact, I may have picked up this recommendation from an episode of Emily in Paris… But don’t let that scare you away, it was definitely worth a stop for lunch in between sightseeing in the city.

Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina

📍 Via dei Giubbonari, 21 – Campo de’ Fiori

We actually stumbled into this place without really knowing how popular it truly is until several folks walked in after us looking for seating when there was none left (we got the last 2 bar seats). Arguably, one of the most sought-after casual restaurants in Rome for pasta lovers and wine enthusiasts, this bustling salumeria-turned-wine-bar serves a legendary carbonara surrounded by shelves of Parmigiano, prosciutto, and fine bottles. The wine list is outstanding, with everything from Barolo to Etna Rosso and beyond, and the energy is pure, delicious chaos. This was the place that I received the most questions about when I posted it on my Instagram stories, by far.

Our experience included a gigantic plate of Italian cheese and charcuterie as an afternoon snack. We watched behind the counter as the staff prepared the bread dishes for the upcoming dinner service. I’ve never seen so many different kinds of bread put into one basket! I know the folks coming for a later meal were in for a treat!

Rimessa Roscioli

📍 Via del Conservatorio, 58 – between Trastevere and Campo de’ Fiori

This was the Roscioli restaurant we actually made plans to visit. I found the recommendation via Star Wine List, so there’s your first sign that this was going to be a hit.

Roscioli’s cooler younger sibling situated in Centro Storico between Trastevere and Campo de’ Fiori, Rimessa is all about the wine experience, which can include guided tastings, storytelling sommeliers, and a relaxed communal vibe. You’ll sip your way through Italian regions and chat with locals and travelers alike. Dining here is in a more communal setting with shared long tables, so be prepared to sit closely next to strangers. This is a spot that makes your evening feel more like a dinner party than just a simple night out for a meal.

Moon Asian Bar

📍 Via della Fontanella, 15 (Hotel Valadier rooftop)– Centro Near Piazza del Popolo

When you need a break from pasta (yes, it happens), head to Moon, a chic Asian-fusion rooftop bar and restaurant that’s heavy on style and flavor. The cocktails are excellent, the crowd is a bit swanky (but not fancy), and the menu mixes Japanese precision with Italian flair. On the evening we decided to check it out, the restaurant was creating a loungy vibe with a DJ playing some fresh, relaxing house. Moon is a distracting (in a good way) dining detour in the heart of historic Rome.

Enoteca Bulzoni

📍 Viale dei Parioli, 36 – Parioli

When you need a break from the heart of the chaos of Rome, head out to some of the neighborhoods just outside the historic center. Here, you will find a neighborhood wine bar with serious credentials and zero pretension. Enoteca Bulzoni is a must for anyone who loves exploring Italian wine regions beyond the usual suspects. Knowledgeable staff, cozy vibe, and a thoughtful food menu make this a favorite among locals. Come for lunch, stay for aperitivo, then grab a few bottles to take home.

Enoteca Buccone

📍 Via di Ripetta, 19 – Centro Near Piazza del Popolo

Need a spot to stop for a glass of wine and decompress before dinner in the center of Rome?
Step back in time at this historic wine shop and enoteca that’s been serving Romans since the 1960s. Buccone is all wood shelves, dusty bottles, and quiet character, creating true old-world charm. It’s the kind of place where you sip a glass of Chianti and contemplate your day, or the meal to come.

Babette

📍 Via Margutta, 1D – Centro Near Piazza del Popolo

For a more tranquil meal, Babette is your Roman French/Italian oasis. Tucked into one of the city’s most romantic streets, it’s perfect for breakfast, lunch, or a calm evening dinner. The courtyard patio is shaded and serene, ideal for a leisurely spritz or a refined meal after a day of exploring. Again, this touch of French flair might be a bit of a stretch from the typical Italian meals at most restaurants, but a nice change of pace if your palate is craving that. Babette offers a charming European connection meal that can calm the senses after a day of lots of stimulation.

Aroma Restaurant

📍 Via Labicana, 125 – Monti

In my opinion, this is a must-dine spot if you like Michelin-level fine dining.
This is the epitome of fine dining in Rome with a view. Aroma sits atop the Palazzo Manfredi, a boutique luxury hotel in the heart of it all, offering a front-row seat to the Colosseum. The Michelin-starred menu pairs perfectly with a thoughtful, interactive (iPad-style) wine list, and a grand view that makes you forget what century you’re in. Aroma is elegant without being intimidating and absolutely has a super chic vibe. We decided to try it out for lunch, and I would definitely call this the definition of a “wow” meal for history & dining lovers alike.

Elio at The Hoxton

📍 Largo Benedetto Marcello, 220 – Parioli

This was our “home” spot for the week, which worked out great during the down times when we didn’t want to go far for something delicious to eat.

Inside the Hoxton hotel, Elio delivers that effortlessly cool energy the brand is known for. Locals and travelers mingle over espresso in the morning and Negronis at night. The menu is modern Italian with cool kid personality, and ideal for a laid-back lunch or a lively aperitivo before heading out into the city. We sat down for brunch and had an incredibly yummy smash burger with a very tasty Italian tomato sauce that absolutely blew us away. Probably one of the better smash burgers of my life. The crowd around us was local and lively. I would recommend a brunch here if you find yourself in the burbs (or need a bit of an escape).

The Hoxton was a great hotel to stay in as well, if you don’t mind taking a taxi to the center of the city. The walk is about an hour or so each way.

The Final Sip?

Rome rewards those who spend the time to wander and linger. Whether you’re craving a classic trattoria, a break from the ordinary, or an intimate Roman wine bar, there’s something unforgettable around every corner.

Just promise you’ll save room for one more glass of wine or spritz. In a place called “The Eternal City,” you can’t possibly say that anything is final. Until next time, Rome!

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